How to Install a Suspended Ceiling?

How to Install a Suspended Ceiling? . Suspended ceilings, also known as drop ceilings, are an ideal solution for modern homes and offices. They hide unsightly wiring, improve acoustics, and offer easy access for maintenance. Whether you’re renovating a room or creating a finished look for your basement, installing a suspended ceiling is a manageable DIY project. This guide walks you through the entire process, from planning to finishing touches.

What do I need to Install a Suspended Ceiling?

Tape Measure
Spirit Level / Laser Level
Drill / Screwdriver
Tin-snips
Stanley Knife
Safety Glasses
Heavy Duty Gloves
Pen / Pencil for marking out

Steps to Install a Suspended Ceiling

Step 1: Planning & Design
Step 2: Installing Perimeter/Edge Trim
Step 3: Fixing the Suspension Points for the Main Runners/ Main Tee Bars
Step 4: Installing the Main Runners 3600mm (Main Tees)
Step 5: Installing the Cross Tees 1200 & 600mm (Noggins)
Step 6: Fitting the Ceiling Tiles

Step 1. Planning & Design

The first step, is planning and designing a suspended ceiling suitable for the environment. We have a simple to use ceiling calculator. It will simply work out your requirements of the project. Please find below the information needed:

The dimensions of the room(s) you will be installing your ceiling into.
If providing a plan to us, please draw the dimensions as close to scale as possible. Graph paper can help you with this.
You can choose from either a 600mm × 600mm or a 600mm × 1200mm tile configuration. The type of tile will determine the Ceiling Grid requirements for your ceiling.
Remember whichever option, you must set the Main Runners at 1200mm centres.
Position the tees so that the cuts around the perimeter are equal on both sides. This will make it easier to cut the tiles to size.
If you are using a 600mm × 1200mm tiles, space the 1200mm cross tees 600mm apart. For a 600mm × 600mm ceiling tile, add 600mm cross tees between the midpoints of the 1200mm cross tees.
If you are also putting Recessed Lights/LED panels/ Prismatics or Air Vents in the ceiling now is the time to plan where they will be going as it’s easier to move the position of these on paper first.

Step 2. Installing Perimeter/Edge Trim

The second step is to install your Edge Trim around the perimeter of your room.

Before installing the suspended ceiling, the height must be determined.
A minimum of 100mm clearance between the ceiling grid and the ceiling it is suspended from.
You will need additional clearance from the ceiling, when installing recessed lights and LED panels. We recommend 200mm – 300mm
When you are satisfied you are happy with the height of the ceiling, use a level to draw a line around the room indicating where the Perimeter Trim will be fixed.
If you are able to use a laser level this will give you the best results. It will also cut down on the time it takes to complete the installation.
Fasten the perimeter trim securely to the wall at all points. Masonry nails for block walls or drywall screws stud walls is recommended (@ 350mm centres approx.).
Position the perimeter trim to your level line, ensuring that you keep the perimeter trim as square as possible to prevent problems in the future.
When you come to the corners where the trims meet, overlap them. Then, with the use of your tin-snips, cut the bottom perimeter trim at an angle to give a mitered finish.

Step 3. Fixing the Suspension Points for the Main Runners/ Main Tee Bars

The third step, now that you have successfully fitted your Edge Trim, is to measure out your suspension wire and plot the points at which you will be suspending your ceiling.

Measure and mark out the position of each Main Tee along the perimeter trim.
The clips on the end of the Main Runner have to be cut off on the end that will rest on the trim.
Now secure your:
Ceiling Brackets – if the ceiling is to be suspended from Timber Joists.
Purlin / Flange Clips – if the ceiling is suspended from Metal Purlins.
Wire Hangers – if the ceiling is suspended from Concrete.
You will need to straighten the suspension wire to enable you to hang the Main Runners.
If you can secure a hook or vine eye into a drill you can attach a length of wire to a fixed secure point, The other end is wrapped around the hook of the vine eye in the drill. When you spin the drill, this will pull the wire straight. IMPORTANT – Please only do this until the wire is straight. Over tightening this can snap the wire. ALWAYS ensure that you wear safety glasses and gloves when doing this.
Measure how long the wire has to be cut based on the drop you originally calculated (the distance from the original ceiling to the new suspended ceiling).
Add 300mm to the length you need to allow you to have plenty of wire to wrap around to secure the Main Runner.
Fix the wire to the fixings that have been provided by putting the wire through the location holes and securely wrapping the wire around.
Give the wire a hard tug to confirm it is secure.
Fix the first suspension wire for each main tee at 400mm – 600mm from the perimeter trim. Check the drawing we have provided you with for the locations.
Attach a suspension wire every 1200mm along the line of the main runner.

Step 4. Installing the Main Runners 3600mm (Main Tees)

The fourth step to installing your suspended ceiling, is to fit your main runners into your edge trim to form the foundation of your grid system.

Main Runners are 3600mm long and have slots at every 100mm for your Cross Tees to fit into. These will begin 50mm from each end.
Put the first Main Runner in the place closest to the Perimeter Trim. Ensure the slot for the first Cross Tee is in line with the location of the Cross Tee.
Proceed to measure and cut the Main Tees to size. Always check that the slots on the Main Runner are in line with locations or the Cross Tees.
Use a string line across the room, to show where the first row of Cross Tees will be located. This lets you know where the first pre-punched slots need to be.
Place the Main Tee on the Edge Trim/Wall Angle.
If the room that you are installing the ceiling in is shorter than 3.6m long, cut the Main Runner to size. If you need to do this remember that the clips on the end will have to be removed also.
For rooms wider than 3600mm, Main Tees can be joined together.
Install the Main Tees, making sure they are all level with the perimeter trim already mounted. To do this, stretch a line from wall trim to Main Tee at 90 degrees.

Step 5. How to Install Cross Tees (1200mm) Cross Tees (600mm)

The fifth step, once your Main Runners are all connected into your Perimeter Trim, is to connect your Cross Tees into the gaps within your Main Runner.

The Cross Tees connect to the Main Runner by fitting into the slots.
Depending if you have selected to install a ceiling with 600 × 600 or 600 × 1200 this will determine the location of the Cross Tees.
To install the Cross Tees, The 1200 Cross Tees go into Main Runner & 600 Cross Tees go into centre slot of 1200 Cross Tees, this will form 600 x 600 squares.
If you are installing 1200 x 600 tiles this will sometimes mean that you do not have to use any 600 Cross Tees and vice versa. On smaller 600 × 600 Ceilings 1200 Cross Tees may not be needed.
Before cutting and fixing the perimeter cross tees, drop a few full tiles into the grid to ensure the grid remains square.
The perimeter Cross Tees are cut to size and rest on Edge Trim/Wall Angle.

Step 6. Fitting the Ceiling Tiles

The sixth and final step is to fit your Ceiling Tiles in the newly created Suspended Ceiling Grid.

How to Install a Drop Ceiling

Placing Your Wall Angles

Use a tape measure to find the length of each wall in the room where you’re installing your ceiling. Write the dimensions of your room either in a notebook or directly on the wall 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) from the top so you can easily reference them later.

If your room is square or rectangular, you only need to measure the length and width.

Measure the length of each wall in your room

Leave at least 4–6 in (10–15 cm) of space from the top of your wall to your line so you have room for fixtures and to put in your tiles. Use a 4 ft (1.2 m) level and draw a straight line with your pencil completely around your room.

Snap a chalk line if you don’t want to draw the lines on yourself. Hold the string of the chalk line against your wall and snap it so the line transfers onto the drywall.

If you plan on installing a large fluorescent light panel, make your line 6 in (15 cm) down.

Make a line between 4–6 in (10–15 cm) down from the tops of your walls

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Wall angles are long L-shaped pieces used around the walls of your room to support the tiles and runners. Since wall angles are usually sold in 8–12 ft (2.4–3.7 m) lengths, trim them down with your tin snips to match the lengths of your walls.

If you have a corner that juts out from your wall, cut the wall angles going on those walls ¹⁄₂ in (1.3 cm) longer than your measurements.
If you want a mitered finish in the corners, cut the wall runner bottom-most wall angle at a 45-degree angle.
If your walls are longer than the wall angles, butt 2 of them together by lining up the ends.

Use a pair of tin snips to cut wall angles to the lengths of your walls

Use a stud finder to locate the studs in your walls and mark their locations with a pencil. Line up the top of the wall angle with the line you’ve drawn on the wall. Use 1 ¹⁄₄ in (3.2 cm) screws and electric screwdriver where you marked the studs to secure your wall angles in place.

Double check that your wall angles are level as you install them.

Tip: If a wall angle bows out, don’t try to tighten it flat against the wall since it may warp the metal. Instead, keep the wall angle straight by placing a wooden shim between it and the wall. When your ceiling is completely finished, fill the gap in with caulk.

Putting in the Grid System

The main runners will support the bulk of the weight of your ceiling. Measure the length of your room that runs perpendicular to the wooden joists of your ceiling. Cut the runners with a pair of tin snips to the correct length.If your room is longer than the length of a main runner, use the clips on the ends of the piece to attach them together.

Cut the main runners to fit the length of your room perpendicular to the joists

Secure the end of a chalk line on one end of your room and pull it tight to the other side. Snap the chalk line to leave a line on the joists. Move over 4 ft (1.2 m) and make another line on your ceiling. Keep moving across your room until you reach the other edge.

You may also tie strings tight across your ceiling if you don’t have a chalk line.

Use a chalk line or tie strings across your room every 4 ft (1.2 m)

Eyelet screws have holes on the end so you can run wires through them to hang your main runner. Attach a lag bit onto your electric screwdriver, and set an eyelet inside the bit. Start placing your eyelets 3 joists away from the wall along each of your chalk or string lines. Keep adding an eyelet at every third joist.

Eye lit screws can be purchased from your local hardware store.

Screw an eyelet into every third joist along your line

Cut a 8–10 in (20–25 cm) piece of 16-gauge wire for each of your eyelets. Feed about 2 in (5.1 cm) of the wire through the eyelet, and bend it with a pair of pliers until it points down.

Feed a length of wire through each of the eyelets

Hold one of your main runners up so the ends rest on your wall angles and so it’s perpendicular to your joists. Feed the other end of the wire through one of the circular slots on the runner, and bend it up with your pliers. Twist the wires around themselves at least 3 times to keep them secure.

Make sure your joists are level as you keep adding wires. Adjust where the bend is in the wires if one side is higher than the other.

Locate the slots on the main runners every 2 ft (0.61 m). Lift your 4 ft (1.2 m) runners above the main runners and feed them into the slots on the mains. Put a secondary runner every 2 ft (0.61 m) along your main runners.

Tip: If you want a 2 ft × 2 ft (0.61 m × 0.61 m) tile system, click 2 ft (0.61 m) secondary runners in the center each 4 ft (1.2 m) runner.

Installing the Ceiling Tiles

Locate any areas on your ceiling where you need to make an opening for your ducts or light fixtures. Trace the end of the duct or the size of the light feature onto the back of one of your tiles. Cut the shape out of the tile with a sharp utility knife.

If you’re installing a full-panel fluorescent light fixture, you don’t need to cut any shapes from the tiles.

Make holes in the tiles for any lighting or ductwork first

Trim any edge tiles down to size with a utility knife. Your room will most likely have edges that won’t fit full-sized tiles. Measure the grid opening for the tile and add ³⁄₈ in (0.95 cm) to the measurement you found. Transfer that measurement to tile and cut the piece to size using a utility knife.

Avoid using any power equipment to cut your tiles since it will generate a lot of dust.

Tip: Tiles usually come in 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) or 2 ft × 2 ft (0.61 m × 0.61 m) sizes. While 2 ft × 4 ft (0.61 m × 1.22 m) tiles use less material and are more cost effective, they do not have the same versatility as 2 ft × 2 ft (0.61 m × 0.61 m) tiles.

Trim any edge tiles down to size with a utility knife

The flanges rest on your runners and make the tile have more dimension when you put it in your ceiling. Measure in ³⁄₈ in (0.95 cm) from any edge that doesn’t have a flange and draw a line with a pencil. Follow along the line with a utility knife, only cutting halfway through the tile. Make another cut on the side of the tile at the same depth as your first cut to remove the flange piece.

This only needs to be done if your tiles don’t have flanges already.

Cut out a 3⁄8 in (0.95 cm) flange in any cut edge of your tiles

Start in the center of your room and work towards the edges. Angle the tiles and lift them through the grid system. Straighten the tiles out before setting the flanges on the runners. Continue putting the tiles into your ceiling until it’s completely covered.

Make sure the tiles are level as you install them. If you find any that aren’t level, adjust the runners before moving on.

Maintenance Tips for Suspended Ceilings

Suspended ceilings are low-maintenance but benefit from occasional care:

Clean Regularly: Use a soft cloth or vacuum to remove dust.
Inspect Tiles: Check for stains or damage and replace tiles as needed.
Test Accessibility: Ensure access to wiring or pipes above the ceiling is unobstructed.

How to Install a Suspended Ceiling?

FAQs About Installing a Suspended Ceiling

1. How long does it take to install a suspended ceiling?
The installation time depends on the size of the room and your experience level. A small room might take 6–8 hours for a DIY enthusiast.

2. Can I install a suspended ceiling myself, or do I need a professional?
With the right tools and preparation, most people can install a suspended ceiling themselves. However, professional help may be needed for larger or more complex projects.

3. What types of ceiling tiles are available?
Ceiling tiles come in various materials, including mineral fiber, metal, and PVC. Choose tiles based on your aesthetic and functional needs.

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